![]() (Even at the price difference of $50 vs $30) Especially if you have large tires.ĮDIT: Added a picture of both tire racks in my garage for comparison.ĮDIT #2: You can always try to price match at CT and hope to get another 10% in CT money. I also later on bought the cheaper foldable version that goes on sale for around $30 and it is much less heavy duty than the one above.Īs someone who has both models, I would definitely suggest getting the Red heavier duty one vs the foldable lightweight grey one. I have the same one bought from canadian tire on sale years ago and it is a very sturdy unit. This is the exact same one as CanadianTire's that goes for $99.99: I was just browsing home depot and I noticed that they have the exact same tire rack as canadian tire but for half the price! If you go the all-thread/epoxy route you wouldn't need any more than 4" depth, max.It is that time where we need to swap tires and store our summer tires! ![]() Maybe check and see if this is the case with a small pilot hole. That said, it's not uncommon for cinderblock to be used as forms and the voids filled with concrete. You see 1/8" anchors in this style commonly sold, I might seek out something a little bigger, 3/16" or so. They're not mollys, they're hinged clamps that expand once through the hole and lock onto the back of the material. You might be just fine with the "wing" type anchors. We always make sure not to drill through, if it happens a new hole has to be drilled because there's no pressure to hold the epoxy. The epoxy/all-thread combo is optimal if your drilled hole terminates in concrete. Concrete Block meets ASTM C 90 specifications, these medium weight solid blocks are dimensionally true and uniform in color, texture and shape. I must've glossed over the cinder block detail. For use in construction of foundations or above-grade masonry walls, this 16 in. experience with the process I recommended is on concrete stemwall foundations. Standard practice.Do you use a sleeve to hold the epoxy from dropping down in the hollow? If not remove the all thread and add a little more.Īllow a day to set up then attach a washer and nut. If a little seeps out after the all thread is fully seated you know enough has been applied. The hole is drilled, scrubbed clean and blown out with an air nozzle.Įpoxy is squirted in the hole and all thread is inserted. Some mounts might have the ability to vertically align the TV wherever you want though so it might not be an issue (my mount did not have that ability).Īnother alternative: attach a few 2x4s to the cinder blocks very securely and then you can attach the TV mount to the 2x4s. Some TVs have their mounting holes in odd places - my TV has the mounting holes towards the bottom of the unit on the back, so I had to attach the mount to the stone lower than you would have assumed (since most TVs have their mounting holes centered vertically on their back). Just make sure you do your measurements correctly the first time so you're not making more unnecessary holes in your cinder blocks. ![]() ![]() The stone it is anchored in is pretty strong. It is comparably light but again, it works fine. Gains strength with age, is exceptionally durable and offers unsurpassed protection against fire, termites and wind. Concrete block is most sustainable and most long-lasting building product investments available. We have a 49" TCL TV mounted and it's been here for a bit over a year with no issues at all. concrete block is most commonly used in the construction of concrete walls for structures of standard size. If I remember correctly I used the plastic anchor sleeves and the lag bolts that came with the mounting kit. My house has a natural gas fireplace made out of a bunch of big rocks, with a hole for a large TV above it.Īfter a lot of measuring and re-measuring I used a hammer drill to make the holes.
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