Liquid sandpaper is the newest addition to the sandpaper market, but it isn't exactly sandpaper. Use very fine grade paper to make these last minute touches before applying protective varnish or sealant. This grit grade of sandpaper is also ideal for rubbing out small blemishes on newly-painted materials or for flatting down a final topcoat while the surface is still capable of being manipulate. Very fine grade sandpaper is completely unsuitable for the removing of paint, but it does offer a highly fine finish to a job once new paint has been applied and dries. This type of sandpaper has a grade of P1200 or higher. Fine sandpaper is perfect for clearing away the residue left from your paint removal project and for producing a smoother surface, which can then be painted over. Since it’s graded between P500 and P1200, it’s much more useful once you’ve already gotten the paint off and can see the underlying original surface. This grade of sandpaper is not effective at all for removing paint. In addition to knowing the best sandpapers to complete your paint removal project, it's also important to know what won't get the job done. This is also the best sandpaper for already chipping paint. Medium grade sandpaper will take the next level of paint and reduce it further by sanding the final layers away. However, this grade will be more useful assuming you've eliminated most of the paint. This has a higher grit grading of between P180 and P500 and will not be as effective at removing the majority of a painted surface. If your surface is an intricate design, you are better advised to use medium course grade to protect the carved design beneath the paint. Medium coarse sandpaper is graded between P80 and P180 on the grit level and offers a good level of paint removal, which is less likely to destroy the underlying surface. WARNING: Be cautious when using course grit sandpaper because it can seriously damage the underlying surface and create large score marks in the softer materials such as wood.If you end up using the sander, exercise caution, follow the product instructions, and wear protective gear. While it’s true that paint stripper could accomplish that same task, the precision of sanding by hand requires less taping and worrying about messes.Ĭoarse sandpaper would also be useful if you wanted to take the paint off only a doorframe or trim and leave the walls covered. This is a smart choice if your initial inspection of the wall tells you that you’re going to have to get through multiple thick coats of finish, paint, and primer. Usually graded at about P40 to P80classed as being coarse, this type of sandpaper is used take off thick layers of paint and is ideal if used with a power sander. The Right Grit for the Jobĭetermining what grit for what job is also dependent on the job itself. Last edited by Sam Murdoch 06-26-2013 at 12:48 AM.NOTE: Despite the word “grit” usually being associated with being rough and strong, on the sandpaper or glasspaper scale, increasing grades actually represent finer, gentler forms of the coated paper abrasive. Again, for durability, I prefer the Mesh. I just prefer the finish quality of Brilliant - I'm not comparing its durability. ain't sayin' I'm the final word on the subject. Using the Festool abrasives, it does make a difference if I am using the RO125 or the ETS 150/3 - 2 different objectives with those tools. for sanding between coats - I use the Abranet mesh from 120 grit on up - mostly. For finished wood, i.e., wood with paint - shellac - varnish etc. I defer to Brilliant as the option before I use Rubin in that range - especially for soft woods. I'm not a big fan of Rubin past 120 grit. No - I did mean that for unfinished wood in the 150 + grits, Brilliant is better than Rubin. The last sentence is "though for unfinished wood Brilliant is a good product." Think he meant to say "though for FINISHED wood Brilliant is a good product."īrilliant is great for finished, painted, etc.
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